The Potential of Natural Based-Skincare Cosmetic Ingredients for Naturally Glowing Skin

Dede Jihan Oktaviani (1) , Yasmiwar Susilawati (2) , Ami Tjitraresmi (3) , Ade Zuhrotun (4)
(1) Padjadjaran University , Indonesia
(2) Padjadjaran University , Indonesia
(3) Padjadjaran University , Indonesia
(4) Padjadjaran University , Indonesia

Abstract

The use of skincare products is the primary need in modern society. There is an increase in awareness of maintaining beauty and healthy skin, as well as the desire to have naturally glowing, healthy skin, which is in line with the rise in the use of cosmetics, especially skincare products. Nature provides many plants and marine resources (such as algae) that can be utilized as essential ingredients for cosmetics preparations with various benefits such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and sun protectors, a primary series of skincare products to gain naturally glowing, healthy skin. This review aims to provide information about plants and marine algae that can be used as skincare ingredients, their phytochemical contents, and their function in cosmetics to achieve naturally glowing skin. Various plants and marine algae categorized based on their benefits as skincare have great potential to be developed as ingredients in cosmetic preparations. The content of phytochemical compounds in these plants and marine algae supports these benefits. Each skincare category has major phytochemical compounds that play a role in providing these benefits.

Full text article

Generated from XML file

References

1. Salvioni L, Morelli L, Ochoa E, Labra M, Fiandra L, Palugan L, et al. The emerging role of nanotechnology in skincare. Adv Colloid Interface Sci. 2021;293:102437. doi:10.1016/j.cis.2021.102437
2. Ota M, Yokoyama M. Chemistry of Cosmetics. Compr Nat Prod II. 2010;3:317–49. doi:10.1016/B978-008045382-8.00728-0
3. Choi YH, Kim SE, Lee KH. Changes in consumers’ awareness and interest in cosmetic products during the pandemic. Fash Text. 2022;9(1):1. doi:10.1186/s40691-021-00271-8
4. Hutagaol RSR, Safrin FA. Pengaruh Celebrity Endorser dan Brand Image Terhadap Keputusan Pembelian pada Produk Scarlett Whitening. J Soc Res. 2022;1(7):761–72. doi:10.55324/josr.v1i7.147
5. Rodan K, Fields K, Majewski G, Falla T. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2016;4(Suppl 12):e1152. doi:10.1097/gox.0000000000001152
6. Nurani AM, Kikuchi K, Lino M, Shirasugi Y, Sonoki A, Fujimura T, et al. Development of a method for evaluating skin dullness: A mathematical model explaining dullness by the color, optical properties, and microtopography of the skin. Skin Res Technol. 2023;29(7):e13407. doi:10.1111/srt.13407
7. Goldie K, Kerscher M, Fabi S, Hirano C, Landau M, Lim T, et al. Skin Quality - A Holistic 360° View: Consensus Results. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021;14:643–54. doi:10.2147/ccid.s309374
8. Lee YB, Shin MK, Kim JS, Park YL, Oh SH, Kim DH, et al. Perceptions and behavior regarding skin health and skin care products: Analysis of the questionnaires for the visitors of skin health expo 2018. Ann Dermatol. 2020;32(5):375–82. doi:10.5021/ad.2020.32.5.375
9. Parrado C, Mercado-Saenz S, Perez-Davo A, Gilaberte Y, Gonzalez S, Juarranz A. Environmental Stressors on Skin Aging. Mechanistic Insights. Front Pharmacol. 2019;10:759. doi:10.3389/fphar.2019.00759
10. Al-Shobaili HA, Ahmed AA, Alnomair N, Alobead ZA, Rasheed Z. Molecular Genetic of Atopic dermatitis: An Update Hani. Int J Health Sci (Qassim). 2016;10(1):96–120.
11. Schagen S, Zampeli V, Makrantonaki E, Zouboulis C. Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):298–307. doi:10.4161/derm.22876
12. Anurukvorakun O, Numnim S. Development and Clinical Efficacy Evaluation of Facial Toner Containing Houttuynia cordata Thunb. Cosmetics. 2023;10(5):133. doi:10.3390/cosmetics10050133
13. Surber C, Kottner J. Skin care products: What do they promise, what do they deliver. J Tissue Viability. 2017;26(1):29–36. doi:10.1016/j.jtv.2016.03.006
14. Del Rosso JQ. The role of skin care as an integral component in the management of acne vulgaris: part 1: the importance of cleanser and moisturizer ingredients, design, and product selection. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2013;6(12):19-27.
15. Alani JI, Davis MDP, Yiannias JA. Allergy to cosmetics: a literature review. Dermatitis. 2013;24(6):283–90. doi:10.1097/der.0b013e3182a5d8bc
16. Draelos ZD. Cosmetics: The Medicine of Beauty. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2015;14(2):91. doi:10.1111/jocd.12146
17. Kumar S, Talwar S, Krishnan S, Kaur P, Dhir A. Purchasing natural personal care products in the era of fake news? The moderation effect of brand trust. J Retail Consum Serv. 2021;63:102668. doi:10.1016/j.jretconser.2021.102668
18. Joshi LS, Pawar HA. Herbal Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals: An Overview. Nat Prod Chem Res. 2015;3(2):1000170. doi:10.4172/2329-6836.1000170
19. Lichterfeld-Kottner A, Lahmann N, Blume-Peytavi U, Mueller-Werdan U, Kottner J. Dry skin in home care: A representative prevalence study. J Tissue Viability. 2018;27(4):226–31. doi:10.1016/j.jtv.2018.07.001
20. Daudt RM, Back PI, Cardozo NSM, Marczak LDF, Külkamp-Guerreiro IC. Pinhão starch and coat extract as new natural cosmetic ingredients: Topical formulation stability and sensory analysis. Carbohydr Polym. 2015;134:573–80. doi:10.1016/j.carbpol.2015.08.038
21. Kottner J, Surber C. Skin care in nursing: A critical discussion of nursing practice and research. Int J Nurs Stud. 2016;61:20–8. doi:10.1016/j.ijnurstu.2016.05.002
22. Fonseca S, Amaral MN, Reis CP, Custódio L. Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients. Mar Drugs. 2023;21(3):170. doi:10.3390/md21030170
23. Nilforoushzadeh MA, Amirkhani MA, Zarrintaj P, Salehi Moghaddam A, Mehrabi T, Alavi S, et al. Skin care and rejuvenation by cosmeceutical facial mask. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(5):693–702. doi:10.1111/jocd.12730
24. Amberg N, Fogarassy C. Green Consumer Behaviour in Cosmetic Market. Resour 2019. 2019;8(137):137. doi:10.3390/resources8030137
25. Wulandini R, Irwansyah FS, Windayani N. Formulation of facial cleansing gels using aloe vera as natural surfactant. J Phys Conf Ser. 2019;1402:055069. doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1402/5/055069
26. Andrianto D, Kurniatin PA, Aulya S, Eriyanti D. The Usage of Momordica charantia as Face Cleansing Cosmetics: Momordica charantia Leaves Extract as Absorbent of Heavy Metal, Surface Tension Reducer and Skin Antibacterial. Curr Biochem. 2019;3(3):138–44.
27. Parnsamut N, Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N. Development and Efficacy Assessments of Tea Seed Oil Makeup Remover. Ann Pharm Fr. 2017;75(3):189–95. doi:10.1016/j.pharma.2016.11.001
28. Meetham P, Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N. Development and clinical efficacy evaluation of anti-greasy green tea tonner on facial skin. Rev Bras Farmacogn. 2018;28(2):214–7. doi:10.1016/j.bjp.2018.01.001
29. Mendhekar SY, Indore PB, Lohakare AB, Shahaji SS. Development and Evaluation of Cream Contain Polyfruit Extract : As Skin Toner and Antiageing. World J Pharm Res. 2017;6(17):1101–10.
30. Pongsakornpaisan P, Lourith N, Kanlayavattanakul M. Anti-sebum efficacy of guava toner: A split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;18(6):1737–41. doi:10.1111/jocd.12943
31. Timudom T, Chaiyasut C, Sivamaruthi BS, Tiampasook P, Nacapunchai D. Anti-sebum efficacy of phyllanthus emblica l. (emblica) toner on facial skin. Appl Sci. 2020;10(22):8193. doi:10.3390/app10228193
32. Laneri S, Di Lorenzo RM, Bernardi A, Sacchi A, Dini I. Aloe barbadensis: A Plant of Nutricosmetic Interest. Nat Prod Commun. 2020;15(7):1934578X2093274. doi:10.1177/1934578X20932744
33. Ratz-Lyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K. Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian J Pharm Sci. 2016;78(1):27–33. doi:10.4103/0250-474x.180247
34. Pressi G, Bertaiola O, Guarnerio C, Barbieri E, Faggian M, Carriero F, et al. Rosa chinensis in vitro cell cultures: a phytocomplex rich of medium molecular weight polysaccharides with hydrating properties. Nat Prod Res. 2019;35(15):2612–5. doi:10.1080/14786419.2019.1686374
35. Zhang C, Zhao F, Li R, Wu Y, Liu S, Liang Q. Purification, characterization, antioxidant and moisture-preserving activities of polysaccharides from Rosa rugosa petals. Int J Biol Macromol. 2019;124:938–45. doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.11.275
36. Ali A, Akhtar N, Khan MS, Rasool F, Iqbal FM, Khan MT, et al. Moisturizing Effect of Cream Containing Moringa oleifera (Sohajana) Leaf Extract by Biophysical Techniques: In Vivo Evaluation. J Med Plants Res. 2013;7(8):386–91. doi:10.5897/JMPR012.504
37. Álvarez-Román R, Silva-Flores PG, Galindo-Rodríguez SA, Huerta-Heredia AA, Vilegas W, Paniagua-Vega D. Moisturizing and antioxidant evaluation of Moringa oleifera leaf extract in topical formulations by biophysical techniques. South African J Bot. 2020;129:404–11. doi:10.1016/j.sajb.2019.10.011
38. Damasceno GA de B, Silva RMA da C, Fernandes JM, Ostrosky EA, Langassner SMZ, Ferrari M. Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations. Braz J Pharm Sci. 2016;52(3):459–70. doi:10.1590/s1984-82502016000300012
39. Ribeiro RCDA, Barreto SMAG, Ostrosky EA, Da Rocha-Filho PA, Veríssimo LM, Ferrari M. Production and characterization of cosmetic nanoemulsions containing Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract as moisturizing agent. Molecules. 2015;20(2):2492–509. doi:10.3390/molecules20022492
40. Zhang ZS, Wang XM, Han ZP, Zhao MX, Yin L. Purification, antioxidant and moisture-preserving activities of polysaccharides from papaya. Carbohydr Polym. 2012;87(3):2332–7. doi:10.1016/j.carbpol.2011.10.067
41. Kassakul W, Praznik W, Viernstein H, Hongwiset D, Phrutivorapongkul A, Leelapornpisid P. Characterization of the mucilages extracted from hibiscus rosa-sinensis linn and hibiscus mutabilis linn and their skin moisturizing effect. Int J Pharm Pharm Sci. 2014;6(11):453–7.
42. Kanlayavattanakul M, Pawakongbun T, Lourith N. Dendrobium orchid polysaccharide extract: Preparation, characterization and in vivo skin hydrating efficacy. Chinese Herb Med. 2019;11(4):400–5. doi:10.1016/j.chmed.2019.03.012
43. Damasceno GAB, Barreto SMAG, Reginaldo FPS, Souto AL, Negreiros MMF, Viana RLS, et al. Prosopis juliflora as a new cosmetic ingredient: Development and clinical evaluation of a bioactive moisturizing and anti-aging innovative solid core. Carbohydr Polym. 2020;233:115854. doi:10.1016/j.carbpol.2020.115854
44. Budiasih S, Masyitah I, Jiyauddin K, Kaleemullah M, Samer AD, Fadli AM, et al. Formulation and Characterization of Cosmetic Serum Containing Argan Oil as Moisturizing Agent. In: Proceed Bromo Conf Symp Nat Prod Biodivers. Setúbal: SciTePress; 2019. p. 297–304. doi:10.5220/0008361702970304
45. da Silva ACP, Paiva JP, Diniz RR, dos Anjos VM, Silva ABSM, Pinto AV, et al. Photoprotection assessment of olive (Olea europaea L.) leaves extract standardized to oleuropein: In vitro and in silico approach for improved sunscreens. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2019;193:162–71. doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2019.03.003
46. Fardiyah Q, Ersam T, Suyanta, Slamet A, Suprapto, Kurniawan F. New potential and characterization of Andrographis paniculata L. Ness plant extracts as photoprotective agent. Arab J Chem. 2020;13(12):8888–97. doi:10.1016/j.arabjc.2020.10.015
47. Mota MD, Morte ANdB, Silva LCRCE, Chinalia FA. Sunscreen protection factor enhancement through supplementation with Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum L) ethanolic extract. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2020;205:111837. doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2020.111837
48. Cefali LC, Ataide JA, Sousa IMdO, Figueiredo MC, Ruiz ALTG, Foglio MA, et al. In vitro solar protection factor, antioxidant activity, and stability of a topical formulation containing Benitaka grape (Vitis vinifera L.) peel extract. Nat Prod Res. 2020;34(18):2677–82. doi:10.1080/14786419.2018.1550758
49. Oliveira MBS, Valentim IB, Santos TR, Xavier JA, Ferro JNS, Barreto EO, et al. Photoprotective and antiglycation activities of non-toxic Cocos nucifera Linn. (Arecaceae) husk fiber ethanol extract and its phenol chemical composition. Ind Crops Prod. 2021;162(3):113246. doi:10.1016/j.indcrop.2021.113246
50. Mota MD, Costa RYS, Guedes AAS S, Silva LCRCE., Chinalia FA. Guava-fruit extract can improve the UV-protection efficiency of synthetic filters in sun cream formulations. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2019;201:111639. doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2019.111639
51. Bhattacharya S, Sherje AP. Development of resveratrol and green tea sunscreen formulation for combined photoprotective and antioxidant properties. J Drug Deliv Sci Technol. 2020;60(1):102000. doi:10.1016/j.jddst.2020.102000
52. Costa SCC, Detoni CB, Branco CRC, Botura MB, Branco A. In vitro photoprotective effects of Marcetia taxifolia ethanolic extract and its potential for sunscreen formulations. Rev Bras Farmacogn. 2015;25(4):413–8. doi:10.1016/j.bjp.2015.07.013
53. Messaraa C, Robertson N, Walsh M, Hurley S, Doyle L, Mansfield A, et al. Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;19(8):1993-9. doi:10.1111/jocd.13252
54. Mukhopadhyay P. Cleansers and their role in various dermatological disorders. Indian J Dermatol. 2011;56(1):2-6. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.77542
55. Kregiel D, Berlowska J, Witonska I, Antolak H, Proestos C, Babic M, et al. Saponin-Based, Biological-Active Surfactants from Plants. In: Najjar R, editor. Application and Characterization of Surfactants. London: IntechOpen; 2017. doi:10.5772/68062
56. Kumar A, Nirmal P, Kumar M, Jose A, Tomer V, Oz E, et al. Major Phytochemicals: Recent Advances in Health Benefits and Extraction Method. Molecules. 2023;28(2):887. doi:10.3390/molecules28020887
57. Chen YF, Yang CH, Chang MS, Ciou YP, Huang YC. Foam properties and detergent abilities of the saponins from Camellia oleifera. Int J Mol Sci. 2010;11(11):4417-25. doi:10.3390/ijms11114417
58. Khan MI, Ahhmed A, Shin JH, Baek JS, Kim MY, Kim JD. Green Tea Seed Isolated Saponins Exerts Antibacterial Effects against Various Strains of Gram Positive and Gram Negative Bacteria, a Comprehensive Study in Vitro and in Vivo. Evid Based Complement Altern Med. 2018;2018:3486106. doi:10.1155/2018/3486106
59. Axel P. Fatty acids: A versatile and sustainable source of raw materials for the surfactants industry. OCL - Oilseeds Fats Crops Lipids. 2001;8(2):145-51. doi:10.1051/ocl.2001.0145
60. Ezzat SM, El Bishbishy MH, El Kersh DM, Zayed A, Salem MA, Salama MM. Herbal cosmeticology. In: Egbuna C, Mishra AP, Goyal MR, Editors. Preparation of Phytopharmaceuticals for the Management of Disorders: The Development of Nutraceuticals and Traditional Medicine. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Academic Press; 2020. p. 129–168. doi:10.1016/B978-0-12-820284-5.00022-8
61. Bashir A, Saeed B, Mujahid TY, Jehan N. Comparative study of antimicrobial activities of Aloe vera extracts and antibiotics against isolates from skin infections. Afr J Biotechnol. 2011;10(19):3835-40. doi:10.5897/AJB07.572
62. Nejatzadeh-Barandozi F. Antibacterial activities and antioxidant capacity of Aloe vera. Org Med Chem Lett. 2013;3(1):5. doi:10.1186/2191-2858-3-5
63. Hossen MM, Hossain ML, Mitra K, Hossain B, Bithi UH, Uddin MN. Phytochemicals and in-vitro antioxidant activity analysis of Aloe vera by-products (skin) in different solvent extract. J Agric Food Res. 2022;10:100460. doi:10.1016/j.jafr.2022.100460
64. Aljohi A, Matou-Nasri S, Ahmed N. Antiglycation and antioxidant properties of Momordica charantia. PLoS One. 2016;11(8):e0159985. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0159985
65. Valko M, Morris H, Cronin MTD. Metals, Toxicity and Oxidative Stress. Curr Med Chem. 2005;12(10):1161–208. doi:10.2174/0929867053764635
66. Mijaljica D, Spada F, Harrison IP. Skin Cleansing without or with Compromise: Soaps and Syndets. Molecules. 2022;27(6):2010. doi:10.3390/molecules27062010
67. Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N. Therapeutic agents and herbs in topical application for acne treatment. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011;33(4):289-97. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00647.x
68. Draelos ZD. Astringents, masks, and ancillary skin care products. In: Baran R, Maibach HI, Editors. Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology. 5th Ed. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press; 2017. p. 178–81.
69. Dorni AIC, Amalraj A, Gopi S, Varma K, Anjana SN. Novel cosmeceuticals from plants—An industry guided review. J Appl Res Med Aromat Plants. 2017;7:1-26. doi:10.1016/j.jarmap.2017.05.003
70. Wu JW, Hsieh CL, Wang HY, Chen HY. Inhibitory effects of guava (Psidium guajava L.) leaf extracts and its active compounds on the glycation process of protein. Food Chem. 2009;113(1):78-84. doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2008.07.025
71. Kumari M, Jain S. Screening of Potential Sources of Tannin and Its Therapeutic Application. Int J Nutr Food Sci. 2015;4(2-1):26-9. doi:10.11648/j.ijnfs.s.2015040201.15
72. Jaijoy K, Soonthornchareonnon N, Lertprasertsuke N, Panthong A, Sireeratawong S. Acute and chronic oral toxicity of standardized water extract from the fruit of Phyllanthus emblica Linn. Int J Appl Res Nat Prod. 2010;3(1):48-58.
73. Ashok P, Upadhyaya K. Tannins are Astringent. J Pharmacogn Phytochem. 2012;1(3):45-50.
74. Cheng Y, Dong Y, Wang J, Dong M, Zou Y, Ren D, et al. Moisturizing and anti-sebum secretion effects of cosmetic application on human facial skin. J Cosmet Sci. 2009;60(1):7-14.
75. Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, Saefudin T. The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: A review. Clin Med Res. 2017;15(3–4):75–87. doi:10.3121/cmr.2017.1363
76. Wolf R, Parish LC. Barrier-repair prescription moisturizers: Do we really need them? Facts and controversies. Clin Dermatol. 2013 Nov 1;31(6):787–91. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2013.05.018
77. Berkey C, Biniek K, Dauskardt RH. Predicting hydration and moisturizer ingredient effects on mechanical behavior of human stratum corneum. Extrem Mech Lett. 2021;46:101327.
78. Simion F, Abrutyn E, Draelos Z. Ability of moisturizers to reduce dry skin and irritation and to prevent their return. J Cosmet Sci. 2005;56(6):427–44.
79. Chularojanamontri L, Tuchinda P, Kulthanan K, Pongparit K. Moisturizers for Acne: What are their Constituents? J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014;7(5):36–44.
80. Aburjai T, Natsheh F. Plants used in cosmetics. Phytother Res. 2003;17:987–1000. doi:10.1002/ptr.1363
81. Lupo M. Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics. Clin Dermatol. 2001;19(4):467-73. doi:10.1016/s0738-081x(01)00188-2
82. Anwar F, Latif S, Ashraf M, Gilani A. Moringa oleifera : A food plant with multiple medicinal uses. Phytother Res. 2007;21(1):17–25. doi:10.1002/ptr.2023
83. Eshun K, He Q. Aloe vera: a valuable ingredient for the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries--a review. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2004;44(2):91–6. doi:10.1080/10408690490424694
84. Dal’Belo SE, Gaspar LR, Campos PMBG. Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques. Ski Res Technol. 2006;12(4):241–6. doi:10.1111/j.0909-752x.2006.00155.x
85. Gallagher J, Gray M. Is Aloe vera effective for healing chronic wounds? J Wound Ostomy Cont Nurs. 2003;30(2):68–71. doi:10.1067/mjw.2003.16
86. Verdier-Sévrain S, Bonté F. Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanism. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006;6(2):75–82. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00300.x
87. Sierra-García G, Castro-Ríos R, González-Horta A, Lara-Arias J, Chávez-Montes A. Acemannan, an extracted polysaccharide from Aloe vera: a literature review. Nat Prod Commun. 2014;9(8):1217–21.
88. Hashizume H. Skin aging and dry skin. J Dermatol. 2004;31(8):603–9. doi:10.1111/j.1346-8138.2004.tb00565.x
89. Shao P, Chen X, Sun P. Improvement of antioxidant and moisture-preserving activities of Sargassum horneri polysaccharide enzymatic hydrolyzates. Int J Biol Macromol. 2015;74:420–7. doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2014.12.021
90. Bahavani A, J. N. Dextran – the polysaccharide with versatile uses. Int J Pharm Biol Sci. 2010;1(4):569–73.
91. Rani NZA, Husain K, Kumolosasi E. Moringa genus: a review of phyotochemistry and pharmacology. Front Pharmacol. 2018;9:108. doi:10.3389/fphar.2018.00108
92. Saini RK, Sivanesan I, Keum YS. Phytochemicals of moringa oleifera: a review of their nutritional, therapeutic and industrial significance. 3 Biotech. 2016;6(2):203. doi:10.1007/s13205-016-0526-3
93. Mokrejš P, Pavlačková J, Janáčová D, Hut’t’a M. Hydration and barrier properties of emulsions with the addition of keratin hydrolysate. Cosmetics. 2018;5(4):64. doi:10.3390/cosmetics5040064
94. Solano F. Metabolism and Functions of Amino Acids in the Skin. Adv Exp Med Biol. 2020;1265:187–99. doi:10.1007/978-3-030-45328-2_11
95. Michalak M, Pierzak M, Kręcisz B, Suliga E. Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review. Nutrients. 2021;13(1):203. doi:10.3390/nu13010203
96. Zhang T, Guo Q, Xin Y, Liu Y. Comprehensive review in moisture retention mechanism of polysaccharides from algae, plants, bacteria and fungus. Arab J Chem. 2022;15(10):104163. doi:10.1016/j.arabjc.2022.104163
97. Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012;4(3):253-8. doi:10.4161/derm.21923
98. Ameena K, Dilip C, Saraswathi R, Krishnan PN, Sankar C, Simi SP. Isolation of the mucilages from Hibiscus rosasinensis linn. and Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus linn.) and studies of the binding effects of the mucilages. Asian Pac J Trop Med. 2010;3(7):539-43. doi:10.1016/S1995-7645(10)60130-7
99. Kanlayavattanakul M, Rodchuea C, Lourith N. Moisturizing effect of alcohol-based hand rub containing okra polysaccharide. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(3):280-3. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00715.x
100. Oh JH, Kim YK, Jung JY, Shin J eun, Kim KH, Cho KH, et al. Intrinsic aging- and photoaging-dependent level changes of glycosaminoglycans and their correlation with water content in human skin. J Dermatol Sci. 2011;62(3):192-201. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2011.02.007
101. Wanitphakdeedecha R, Eimpunth S, Manuskiatti W. The effects of mucopolysaccharide polysulphate on hydration and elasticity of human skin. Dermatol Res Pract. 2011;2011:807906. doi:10.1155/2011/807906
102. Wilson BD, Moon S, Armstrong F. Comprehensive Review of Ultraviolet Radiation and the Current Status on Sunscreens. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2012;5(9):18–23.
103. Stevanato R, Bertelle M, Fabris S. Photoprotective characteristics of natural antioxidant polyphenols. Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2014;69(1):71–7. doi:10.1016/j.yrtph.2014.02.014
104. Ribeiro FM, Volpato H, Lazarin-Bidóia D, Desoti VC, de Souza RO, Fonseca MJV, et al. The extended production of UV-induced reactive oxygen species in L929 fibroblasts is attenuated by posttreatment with Arrabidaea chica through scavenging mechanisms. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2018;178:175–81. doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2017.11.002
105. Mesa-Arango AC, Flórez-Muñoz SV, Sanclemente G. Mechanisms of skin aging. Iatreia. 2017;30(2):160–70. doi:10.17533/udea.iatreia.v30n2a05
106. Nichols JA, Katiyar SK. Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms. Arch Dermatol Res. 2010;302(2):71-83. doi:10.1007/s00403-009-1001-3
107. Ghazi S. Do the polyphenolic compounds from natural products can protect the skin from ultraviolet rays? Results Chem. 2022;4:100428. doi:10.1016/j.rechem.2022.100428
108. Júnior EQdF, da Silva GF, Maquiné LV, Monteiro YM, Gurgel RS, Aranha ESP, et al. Photoprotective, antioxidant, antimicrobial and cytotoxic activities of guarana (Paullinia cupana) seed extracts. Int J Phytocos Nat Ingred. 2020;7(1):10. doi:10.15171/ijpni.2020.10
109. Donglikar MM, Deore SL. Sunscreens: A review. Pharmacogn J. 2016;8(3):171-9. doi:10.5530/pj.2016.3.1
110. Berry EG, Bezecny J, Acton M, Sulmonetti TP, Anderson DM, Beckham HW, et al. Slip versus Slop: A Head-to-Head Comparison of UV-Protective Clothing to Sunscreen. Cancers. 2022;14(3):542. doi:10.3390/cancers14030542
111. Haloui E, Marzouk B, Marzouk Z, Bouraoui A, Fenina N. Hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein from olive leaves: Potent anti-inflammatory and analgesic activities. J Food Agric Environ. 2011;9(3):128-33.
112. Kaneko I, Chiba T, Hayamizu K, Tsuji T. Effect of a Supplement Containing Olive Leaf Extract against Ultraviolet Light-Induced Tanning: A Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Study. Anti Aging Med. 2008;5(7):78-81. doi:10.3793/jaam.5.78
113. Saewan N, Jimtaisong A. Photoprotection of natural flavonoids. J Appl Pharm Sci. 2013;3(9):129-41. doi:10.7324/JAPS.2013.3923
114. de Oliveira CA, Peres DDa, Rugno CM, Kojima M, De Oliveira Pinto CAS, Consiglieri VO, et al. Functional photostability and cutaneous compatibility of bioactive UVA sun care products. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2015;148:154-9. doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2015.04.007
115. Thitilertdecha N, Teerawutgulrag A, Kilburn JD, Rakariyatham N. Identification of major phenolic compounds from Nephelium lappaceum L. and their antioxidant activities. Molecules. 2010;15(3):1453-65. doi:10.3390/molecules15031453
116. Hernández C, Ascacio-Valdés J, De la Garza H, Wong-Paz J, Aguilar CN, Martínez-Ávila GC, et al. Polyphenolic content, in vitro antioxidant activity and chemical composition of extract from Nephelium lappaceum L. (Mexican rambutan) husk. Asian Pac J Trop Med. 2017;10(12):1201-5. doi:10.1016/j.apjtm.2017.10.030
117. Zhuang Y, Ma Q, Guo Y, Sun L. Protective effects of rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) peel phenolics on H2O2-induced oxidative damages in HepG2 cells and D-galactose-induced aging mice. Food Chem Toxicol. 2017;108(Pt B):554-62. doi:10.1016/j.fct.2017.01.022
118. Korać RR, Khambholja KM. Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation. Pharmacogn Rev. 2011;5(10):164-73. doi:10.4103/0973-7847.91114
119. Agati G, Brunetti C, Di Ferdinando M, Ferrini F, Pollastri S, Tattini M. Functional roles of flavonoids in photoprotection: New evidence, lessons from the past. Plant Physiol Biochem. 2013;72:35-45. doi:10.1016/j.plaphy.2013.03.014
120. Cavinato M, Waltenberger B, Baraldo G, Grade CVC, Stuppner H, Jansen-Dürr P. Plant extracts and natural compounds used against UVB-induced photoaging. Biogerontology. 2017;18(4):499-516. doi:10.1007/s10522-017-9715-7
121. Lima EBC, Sousa CNS, Meneses LN, Ximenes NC, Santos Júnior MA, Vasconcelos GS, et al. Cocos nucifera (L.) (arecaceae): A phytochemical and pharmacological review. Braz J Med Biol Res. 2015;48(11):953-64. doi:10.1590/1414-431x20154773
122. Valadez-Carmona L, Cortez-García RM, Plazola-Jacinto CP, Necoechea-Mondragón H, Ortiz-Moreno A. Effect of microwave drying and oven drying on the water activity, color, phenolic compounds content and antioxidant activity of coconut husk (Cocos nucifera L.). J Food Sci Technol. 2016;53(9):3495-501. doi:10.1007/s13197-016-2324-7
123. Tomazelli LC, de Assis Ramos MM, Sauce R, Cândido TM, Sarruf FD, de Oliveira Pinto CAS, et al. SPF enhancement provided by rutin in a multifunctional sunscreen. Int J Pharm. 2018;552(1–2):401-6. doi:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2018.10.015
124. Munakata R, Inoue T, Koeduka T, Sasaki K, Tsurumaru Y, Sugiyama A, et al. Characterization of coumarin-specific prenyltransferase activities in citrus limon peel. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2012;76(7):1389-93. doi:10.1271/bbb.120192
125. Mulyani E, Suratno, Venkatesan A, Pratama MRF. Exposure to light during the extraction process affects UV-Vis spectrophotometer profile of ethanol extract of Akar Kuning (Arcangelisia flava). Biointerface Res Appl Chem. 2019;9(5):4401-4. doi:10.33263/BRIAC95.401404
126. Pratama MRF, Suratno, Mulyani E. Profile of Thin-Layer Chromatography and UV-Vis Spectrophotometry of Akar Kuning Stem Extract (Arcangelisia flava). Borneo J Pharm. 2018;1(2):72-6. doi:10.33084/bjop.v1i2.367
127. OyetakinWhite P, Tribout H, Baron E. Protective mechanisms of green tea polyphenols in skin. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2012;2012:560682. doi:10.1155/2012/560682
128. Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária – Anvisa. Resolução da Diretoria Colegiada - RDC No 54, De 12 De Novembro De 2012. Brasilia: Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária – Anvisa; 2012. Available from: http://portal.anvisa.gov.br/wps/wcm/connect/630a98804d7065b981f1e1c116238c3b/Resolucao+RDC+n.+54_2012.pdf?MOD=AJPERES
129. Lopez-Hortas L, Florez-Fernandez N, Torres MD, Ferreira-Anta T, Casas MP, Balboa EM, et al. Applying seaweed compounds in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics. Mar Drugs. 2021;19(10):552. doi:10.3390/md19100552
130. Sotelo CG, Blanco M, Ramos P, Vázquez JA, Perez-Martin RI. Sustainable sources from aquatic organisms for cosmeceuticals ingredients. Cosmetics. 2021;8(2):48. doi:10.3390/cosmetics8020048
131. Gomez-Zavaglia A, Prieto Lage MA, Jimenez-Lopez C, Mejuto JC, Simal-Gandara J. The potential of seaweeds as a source of functional ingredients of prebiotic and antioxidant value. Antioxidants. 2019;8(9):406. doi:10.3390/antiox8090406
132. Stiger-Pouvreau V, Zubia M. Macroalgal diversity for sustainable biotechnological development in French tropical overseas territories. Bot Mar. 2020;6(3):17-41. doi:10.1515/bot-2019-0032
133. Chopin T, Tacon AGJ. Importance of Seaweeds and Extractive Species in Global Aquaculture Production. Rev Fish Sci Aquac. 2021;29(2):139-48. doi:10.1080/23308249.2020.1810626
134. Jesumani V, Du H, Aslam M, Pei P, Huang N. Potential use of seaweed bioactive compounds in skincare—a review. Mar Drugs. 2019;17(12):688. doi:10.3390/md17120688
135. Nadilah F, Surilayani D, Pratama G. Level of Preference microbiological activity on Facial Hydrating Toner Preparations from Seaweed (Turbinaria conoides) with the Addition of Centella asiatica Leaf Extract (Pegagan). Agrikan J Agribisnis Perikanan. 2022;15(2):745–50. doi:10.52046/agrikan.v15i2.1342
136. Aliyyah HT, Usodoningtyas S, Pritasari OK, Wilujeng BY. Pembuatan Penyegar Wajah dari Ekstrak Rumput Laut (Eucheuma cottonii) dan Air Bunga Telang (Clitoria ternatea) untuk Masyarakat Pesisir di Tuban. JBC J Beauty Cosmetol. 2022;3(2):1–12.
137. Shao P, Shao J, Han L, Lv R, Sun P. Separation, preliminary characterization, and moisture-preserving activity of polysaccharides from Ulva fasciata. Int J Biol Macromol. 2015;72:924–30. doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2014.09.048
138. Wang J, Jin W, Hou Y, Niu X, Zhang H, Zhang Q. Chemical composition and moisture-absorption/retention ability of polysaccharides extracted from five algae. Int J Biol Macromol. 2013;57:26–9. doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2013.03.001
139. Kurnia T, Widayati RI. Efektivitas Ekstrak Alga Coklat (Sargassum Sp.) 2% dalam Pelembab pada Kulit Kering. J Kedokteran Diponegoro Diponegoro Med J. 2017;6(2):1261–8. doi:10.14710/dmj.v6i2.18639
140. Leelapornpisid P, Mungmai L, Sirithunyalug B, Jiranusornkul S, Peerapornpisal Y. A Novel Moisturizer Extracted from Freshwater Macroalga [Rhizoclonium hieroglyphicum (C.Agardh) K tzing] for Skin Care Cosmetic. Chiang Mai J Sci. 2014;41(5.2):1195–207.
141. Rashedy SH, Abd El Hafez MSM, Dar MA, Cotas J, Pereira L. Evaluation and characterization of alginate extracted from brown seaweed collected in the red sea. Appl Sci. 2021;11(14):6290. doi:10.3390/app11146290
142. Lokollo FF, Hukubun RD. Jenis Alga Coklat Penghasil Alginat di Pulau Ambon. J Pulau Laut. 2022;1(1):1-10. doi:10.30598/jlpvol1iss1pp1-10
143. Yanuarti R, Nurjanah N, Anwar E, Pratama G. Kandungan Senyawa Penangkal Sinar Ultra Violet dari Ekstrak Rumput Laut Eucheuma cottonii dan Turbinaria conoides. Majalah Ilmiah Biol Biosfera Sci J. 2017;34(2):51-8. doi:10.20884/1.mib.2017.34.2.467
144. Putri DK, Idiawati N, Sofiana MSJ. Phytochemical content and value of sun protection factors (SPF) in methanol extracts of Hypnea pannosa, Turbinaria decurrens, and Caulerpa serrulata). Indo J Pure App Chem 3. 2020;5(2):65–72. doi:10.26418/indonesian.v5i2.49170
145. Hermund DB, Torsteinsen H, Vega J, Figueroa FL, Jacobsen C. Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties. Mar Drugs. 2022;20(11):687. doi:10.3390/md20110687

Authors

Dede Jihan Oktaviani
dede16007@mail.unpad.ac.id (Primary Contact)
Yasmiwar Susilawati
Ami Tjitraresmi
Ade Zuhrotun
Author Biographies

Dede Jihan Oktaviani, Padjadjaran University

Department of Pharmaceutical Biology, Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung, West Java, Indonesia

Yasmiwar Susilawati, Padjadjaran University

Department of Pharmaceutical Biology, Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung, West Java, Indonesia

Ami Tjitraresmi, Padjadjaran University

Department of Pharmaceutical Biology, Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung, West Java, Indonesia

Ade Zuhrotun, Padjadjaran University

Department of Pharmaceutical Biology, Universitas Padjadjaran, Bandung, West Java, Indonesia

1.
Oktaviani DJ, Susilawati Y, Tjitraresmi A, Zuhrotun A. The Potential of Natural Based-Skincare Cosmetic Ingredients for Naturally Glowing Skin. Borneo J Pharm [Internet]. 2023Nov.30 [cited 2024Dec.21];6(4):417-36. Available from: https://journal.umpr.ac.id/index.php/bjop/article/view/5013

Article Details